Showing posts with label Kenya. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kenya. Show all posts

Friday, July 3, 2020

Refugee Artists in Kenya Release Track Calling for Hope & Unity in the Fight against COVID-19

Believe, YouTube.com.

FilmAid International, an NGO headquartered in New York City, celebrated World Refugee Day on June 20, 2020, by sharing an original song and music video, "Believe," created by youth living in Kakuma Refugee Camp in Kenya.

The artists call for hope and unity in the fight against Covid-19.

Believe, www.YouTube.com.

Exile Key Films wrote, "... please help the artists inspire more people around the world. Each of the artists fled violence in their country of birth to find a new home in a remote camp in northwest Kenya, which houses roughly 200,000 people from 22 countries. The artists’ strength, hope, and faith has enabled them not only to survive, but to forge global voices that demand respect for the fundamental rights of women, girls, and all human beings — the result is an inspiring call to unite in the face of a global crisis."

Believe

Watch the music video, "Believe - featuring MLay, Queen Lisa, Mercy Akuot, Yong A, and Mr Panadol" on Exile Key Films YouTube channel.



Watch the music video with Spanish subtitles.

Believe was written, composed, and performed by:
MLay Aza (Burundi)
Mercy Akuot (South Sudan)
Queen Lisa (Burundi)

The music video was created by:
Abdul Patient (Burundi), founder of Exile Key Films, and his creative partner Muhaz.

Black Lives Matter

The YouTube video description reads, "STATEMENT FROM THE ARTISTS IN DEFENSE OF BLACK LIVES:

"We composed "BELIEVE" before the tragic murder of George Floyd and Breonna Taylor, and before the righteous protests started around the world. Our call for unity in the face of the COVID-19 pandemic came from our belief in humanity. We refuse to give up our faith, but as black African refugee women we know firsthand that unity is only possible through peace and peace is not possible without justice. That includes justice for the black and brown people who are suffering from the COVID-19 pandemic. "I can't breathe is a sentence that brings pain to all Black people. And because "injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere,” we want you to know that your African sisters and brothers stand with you! The great woman Wangari Maathai said "in the course of history there comes a time when humanity is called to shift to a new level of consciousness, to reach a higher moral ground. A time when we have to shed our fear and give hope to each other. That time is now." We stand beside you as you mourn, and with you as we fight together for hope and justice! #BLACKLIVESMATTER"

Exile Key Films

"Exile Key Films is a legally incorporated music and film studio founded by FilmAid graduates living in Kakuma Refugee Camp."

Source: Exile Key Films YouTube channel

Follow Exile Key Films on Facebook.

FilmAid International

"Using film, radio and journalism created by refugees, FilmAid engages communities with dignity and respect, providing information about their rights, safety, health and well-being. Alongside public information campaigns, FilmAid trains young people in all aspects of storytelling and communications, empowering the next generation to advocate for its own rights and community needs.

Continue reading about FilmAid International on www.filmaid.org.

Monday, May 18, 2020

Hear From Chelsea Clinton and Kennedy Odede on COVID-19 in Kenya's urban slums

SHOFCO Covid-19 awareness campaign and handwashing station, SHOFCO Facebook.

I visited the NGO Shining Hope for Communities (SHOFCO) in Kibera, Kenya, in 2011 where I met SHOFCO co-founder Jessica, and then heard her co-founder, Kennedy, speak at TedXKibera. 

I appreciate the work SHOFCO does in Kenya and am looking forward to hearing from Kennedy and supporter Chelsea Clinton on Wednesday, May 20.

The details are in the below email message I received on Friday, May 15, 2020. If you can't join the May 20 event then you can learn more and watch recordings of past events on the SHOFCO Facebook page.

SHOFCO May 20, 2020 event, SHOFCO e-newsletter.

"The spread of COVID-19 is marching on in Kenya’s urban slums and SHOFCO is on the front lines battling to help communities tackle this pandemic under a lockdown. I’ve been working relentlessly to tell this story out in the world, to ring the alarm bells of the devastating reality of COVID-19 in places where social distancing is a privilege, and most families are living on the edge of survival from week to week.

"As part of our mission to tell this story, I am hosting a candid and online conversation with my dear friend, Chelsea Clinton, whom I've gotten to know as a CGI U alumnus, and I would love to have you join us. Chelsea is Vice Chair of the Clinton Foundation, and has extensive public health expertise with a focus on lasting, systemic change. I’m excited to speak with Chelsea about what the realities of COVID-19 mean for vulnerable communities in Kenya and how community-based leadership is stepping up in this moment to offer innovations and solutions that have global relevance. Together we will brainstorm ideas, exchange perspectives, and answer any questions you may have.

"Chelsea and I will be in conversation on Wednesday, May 20 at 12pm EDT / 5pm BST / 7pm EAT. You can register your participation and submit questions here.

"This is a moment of truth for us on the front line, as we adjust to the new reality that COVID-19 is here to stay. At the same time, I am seeing that COVID is a chance to rethink the status quo and governments are listening to community-based groups like SHOFCO in ways I never thought possible.

"Your voice and attention helps us as we continue to fight this battle. Please join our conversation on May 20, and read more about the work we are doing in Kenya here: https://www.shofco.org/covid-19/

Thank you,

Kennedy Odede
SHOFCO Co-Founder & CEO"

Saturday, November 30, 2013

#WornWear

Daraja Academy of Kenya students.
I'm at least the second owner of this well-worn and well-loved Patagonia nano puff pullover. I added some stories to it in Kenya this year.


Clip from new film Worn Wear. Watch the film on YouTube.

What stories do your Patagonia clothes have to tell? Share on social media using #wornwear.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Turning Sh*T Into Gold

I got to cover one of my favorite startups for the HeadCount blog. Re-posting it here:

Have you ever wondered what happens when you flush your toilet? In Kenya? If you live in one of Kenya’s urban slums then your toilet does not flush. Your toilet could be a plastic bag known as a flying toilet or a bucket whose untreated contents are later emptied directly into your environment. During rainy periods residents - particularly women and children - become susceptible to deadly waterborne illnesses like typhoid and cholera.

So now that you're completely grossed out, I hope you find this idea refreshing... What if each flush meant money for small businesses and fertilizer acceptable for use in agriculture.

A team of recent MIT Sloan School or Business graduate are out to permanently reduce sanitation-related disease by making sanitation profitable. Their company, Sanergy (“sanitation” plus “energy”) has been called “the single most innovative sustainability initiative on the planet”.

To read the rest click here - you'll be taken to my original post on the HeadCount blog.

This Sanergy video didn't fit in the HeadCount post - check it out here!

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

East Africa: Who What Where Why?

This post is an attempt to summarize what I have begun to refer to as my "self-funded, self-directed fellowship" ... otherwise known as my "East Africa Summer" - May 14 through Aug 22, 2011.

It all started with my Lehigh Comparative Politics class. Our TA Brian had spent a semester abroad in Kenya, and used to meet with a small group of interested students once a week, to show us photographs and tell us stories about Kenya. Years later two close friends, Sharon and Eric left at about the same time for Tanzania, to volunteer for extended amounts of time. I got to experience Tanzania vicariously through them. Then in January 2010 I watched the first Invisible Children documentary about the Lord's Resistance Army and Joseph Kony. I was really touched by Jacob's story, one of the Ugandan boys in the film, and started following Invisible Children's work. Over the course of the rest of 2010, things just kept piling on top of each other. I read Jacqueline Novogratz's book The Blue Sweater, and began going to Acumen Fund events. I started meeting people from San Francisco's social entrepreneurship community, while also reading about other young social entrepreneurs. I wanted my own experience, and I wanted to meet the social entrepreneurs in East Africa and hear their stories in person. Fortunately things culminated in my life in such a way that I was able to just jump in with both feet, and I began to plan an East Africa Summer.

The next part wasn't quite as easy. Invisible Children doesn't have a volunteer program in their Gulu, Uganda office. I had missed the Kiva Fellowship Program application deadline. I hadn't been to East Africa before and didn't have any friends there; I needed to plan out where I would be volunteering, and my return date. I remembered that the Daraja Academy of Kenya had invited me to volunteer at their campus in Kenya, after the successful athletic shoe drive that Caitie and I had organized the previous summer. I applied to volunteer at Daraja for a month beginning on May 14, and was accepted. Next, I needed to propose a project to be completed during my month's stay on campus. I am very interested in access to higher education and love mentoring my Level Playing Field Summer Math & Science Honors Academy students, so I proposed serving as a guidance counselor on campus, for the month. Daraja had a better idea - they needed help researching post-graduation opportunities for the students. Daraja is a young school - the oldest students are in Form 3 (high school juniors). So I would get to do some planning work, which sounded exciting! While I was quitting my job and giving up my San Francisco apartment, I figured that I might as well stay in East Africa for the summer. I reached out to one of the Lost Boys of Sudan, who I had met several months prior to see if he had any suggestions. Garang said that he could use my help with a particular project in East Africa, and we decided that I would return to the USA on August 22. So I was all set! I gave notice, gave away a lot of my stuff, packed what was left, drove that stuff and my dog to my mom's in NY, and then I was off to the airport.

I lived on Daraja's campus outside of Nanyuki, near Mount Kenya from May 14 through June 14. I spent most of my time conducting online research, interviewing civil servants (Nanyuki is the Laikipia District seat so there is a government compound in town), helping students prepare for the Music Festival competition, attending Sunday student-run religious services, ran a Blue Sweater Book Club using twenty-five copies of the book that had been donated by the Acumen Fund, participating in the sports program, sitting in on the Women of Integrity Strength and Hope (WISH) classes, and in general trying to get to know the students and the Kenyan education system as well as possible.

I had trouble reaching Garang of New Scholars while I was at Daraja, due to poor telecommunications infrastructure in South Sudan. So at this point it was time to re-invent the summer plans! From Daraja I proceeded to Jinja, Uganda to visit an old friend, Meghan who was volunteering with Light Gives Heat for the summer. I spent about a week in Jinja learning about Meghan's work and meeting her fellow volunteers and the organization's staff, went to Sipi Falls, Bujagali Falls, went white water rafting on the Nile, and spent a lot of time meeting staff and guests at the hostel where I was staying, which is where I learned so much about Ugandan culture, the education system, credit, and development. From there I headed onto Kampala, the capital of Uganda where I was invited to stay with a fellow Pace Law Environmental Program alum, Elaine who was on a Fulbright and was living on the Makarere University Campus. Thanks to Elaine and a Kiva Fellow I met, Michele, got to know the expat community and life in Kampala. I also got to meet the founders of one of my favorite social ventures, AFRIpads! While in Kampala I also explored the city, and learned that Jacqueline Novogratz had tweeted about me! I left Kampala for a few days, to track chimps in Kibale National Park. While there I realized that the water filter that I brought with me from the USA was not working and began to drink bottled water, not realizing that my body was already fighting water-borne illnesses. I'd met two Australian travelers on my first day in Uganda, who had invited me to go up to Gulu, Uganda with them to visit the Invisible Children office. I'd also met Tom, a Ugandan who attends university in Michigan and is active with his campus' Invisible Children Club but was home for summer break, at a coffee shop in Jinja. Tom had introduced me to someone who works in the Invisible Children Gulu office. Visiting Gulu, meeting the Invisible Children staff, staying at one of the Invisible Children staff houses, going to Krochet Kids' compound ... I learned so much! I wrapped up my three and a half weeks in Uganda with one final Nile rafting trip, and goodbye-for-now's to my friends at the hostel, and Meghan. Leaving Uganda ... crossing the border back into Kenya ... that was hard. I loved Uganda.

I headed right back to Nairobi, to begin the third and final part of my East Africa Summer. I stayed at a hostel (Upper Hill Campsite) that had been recommended by my Australian friends, as well as a San Francisco Surfrider friend Jules, who had been through Nairobi recently. I met some people who had been traveling all over Africa, and had interesting stories to tell. Thanks to Michele's roommate in Kampala, I quickly found a room in a Western apartment to sublet, in the heart of Nairobi. I spent most of the next six weeks in Nairobi itself, doing work. Even though I had technically already finished my project for Daraja, I decided to continue my research, independently. I felt as if I was just beginning to scratch the surface of understanding, when I left Daraja. There was (and still is) so much to learn. But it wasn't all work - I took side trips to Maasai Mara National Park "on safari", up to Daraja's campus for a quick weekend to meet Daraja co-founder Jenni who had been out of the country while I was living at Daraja, and to Mombasa and Diani Beach on the Kenyan coast. I met some great fellow travelers white water rafting and on safari, who I later caught up with in Nairobi - Maria, Elien and Jan. I also did a few "day trips" within Nairobi's city limits - to the David Sheldrick Baby Elephant and Rhino Orphanage for the public daily milk feeding and then for the tuck-in, and to Nairobi National Park. I got connected to two Georgetown alums in Nairobi, Angela and Laney, and another American living in Nairobi, Karen. I had so much fun hanging out with them, getting advice about health care when my illnesses started keeping me down, and helping Angela out with the Amanai Art Club that she started for Nairobi street boys. I got to meet two of my friend Sharon's Kenyan friends, two Kiva Fellows in Nairobi, Richard and Nila, and my friend Sowmya's friends from her International Peace Masters Program, Wilson and Edith. I also got to meet Acumen Fund Nairobi office team member Suraj, who invited me to the launch of the Acumen East Africa Fellows Program where I got to meet Jacqueline Novogratz, and to TEDxKibera. Lehigh young alum Freedom warmly welcomed me to Kenya, and helped me plan and run a Lehigh Alumni Happy Hour in Nairobi. I mentioned that one of my plans for my summer was to meet inspiring social entrepreneurs, and to get to hear their stories. I got to meet Jessica Posner, who has been an inspiration to me from the time that I first learned of her work with Shining Hope for Communities. I also got to reconnect with Garang from New Scholars, while he was in Nairobi from South Sudan, and learned how I can help him with his work. I remain so passionate about the work that needs to be done - and opportunities - in South Sudan.

In addition to all of these activities, and learning Nairobi I continued on with the research that I began at Daraja. While touring social ventures in Uganda, I noticed that every venture had social workers on staff. I began to consider that bursaries (college scholarships) were not quite enough - the students need mentors, too. While in Uganda I got to meet with a US Embassy employee who helps Ugandan students access US universities, and then got to meet staff in Kenya who are doing a similar thing. I set up appointments and dropped in on nonprofits and corporate operations that empower Kenyan students via both bursaries and mentoring programs, including Akili Dada, KenSAP, and Equity Bank. (I was invited to attend the two-week long second annual Equity Bank Congress on Kenyatta University's campus, which was an amazing experience - got to meet inspiring students, and was able to collaborate with fantastic bank employees.) While conducting my research at Daraja I learned about some of Kenya's top students, and found that many attended two "national" boarding schools for girls, both located in Nairobi - Precious Blood Riruta and Kenya High School. I was invited to visit both campuses, and learned so much from meeting the Precious Blood students and Principal, and staff at Kenya High School. Meeting John, one of the current Acumen East Africa Fellows, turned some of my thoughts upside down. Wow - one of the best things from my summer was people's willingness to go out of their way to teach me, and help me with my work.

I left Nairobi on August 22, to fly back to the States feeling as if my work was just beginning. I'm still trying to draw conclusions from all that I saw, experienced, and learned this past summer. I remind myself of Jacqueline Novogratz's keynote at the East Africa Fellows launch event, when she reminded us that she has been doing this work for twenty-five years. I can't expect to have figured everything out in three and a half months. And yet ... the best thing is just to begin. Thanks to Sanergy, a eco-sanitation solution social venture in Nairobi, I found out about Kevin Starr's PopTech talk.



It's given me a lot to think about. I also learned a lot from a conversation that I had with Saul Garlick at SOCAP11 (Social Capital Markets Conference) last month. What do I care most about? What is the problem that I want to solve? Forget about the rest of it. Just start with this. I'm working on it, and will update here when I'm ready! But the main theme is empowering young East African women to create change in their communities through mentoring, education, travel and extended service learning.

Thanks to everyone who followed along with my adventures by reading my East Africa blog posts, and checking in with me. It meant a lot!

Friday, October 7, 2011

East Africa: What I Wish I'd Known Before I Left the USA for East Africa - Part 1: What To Pack

If you spoke with me before I left the USA for East Africa earlier this year, then you'll likely remember that I had a list of questions regarding what to expect and pack. Please don't remind me of the questions I was asking - so embarrassing! Also, I neglected to ask some questions simply because I didn't know enough to ask them!

This is the first in a series of blog posts that I've been meaning to post for the past month. A summary of what I wish I'd known, before I left. Some people may disagree with me - this is just my two cents, based on my own experience.

PART 1: WHAT TO PACK


1. Luggage -
a.) Travel Pack. I brought a 60 liter pack, though I wonder if I could have gotten away with something smaller/less clothes.

b.) Day Pack. I used this for short overnight trips, and left my travel pack in a secure location at my home base.

c.) Some sort of shoulder bag to carry around with you, during the day. Make sure it's big enough to carry a bottle of water, at least. It should have a flap or a zipper on it, to keep it secure. Tote bags are not good > pickpockets. I brought this one - the Timbuk2 Click in solid black. And Sports Basement had the best price.

d.) Some sort of lightweight, packable second bag that you can use to carry souvenirs , or for times when you just don't feel like trying to jam everything back into your pack. I looked all over for the "right" bag, and decided upon the REI Stuff Travel Duffel.

e.) I brought a few of these space bags for my clothes. Stick them inside the bag, squeeze the air out by hand, close the seal, and you can fit more clothes in your travel pack - the Stoic WPF Compression Sack. They aren't supposed to keep your clothes dry if you drop the bag in a river, but they seem like they'd be water repellent. Luckily I never had cause to find out.

f.) I put my travel pack inside of one large bag, for airport transport. I wound up with the Osprey Airporter LZ Pack Duffel, which I also got at REI. I brought my bag up to the bag check in counter and then zipped it into this big bag, before putting it down to be weighed. Yes, this meant that I had to carry it around in my pack when I wasn't on a flight, but it was worth it to protect my bag - so that the straps and/or belt wouldn't get caught in the airport machinery, and get ripped off. I took a quick look at packs in Nairobi, and they were expensive and there wasn't a big selection. You don't want to have to replace it while traveling.

g.) I brought a TSA-approved luggage lock and security chain. I only used the chain once - to secure wardrobe doors closed in a hotel room while my pack was inside the wardrobe. But I used the lock a lot - at hostels to lock up my valuables in a drawer in the dresser in the dorm rooms, or for a locker that I rented in the hostel lobby. I used it to lock up the Osprey Airporter when I checked it in, at the airport. TSA has the key, so the airport staff won't cut your lock off to look inside of your bag. I brought the Eagle Creek 3-Dial TSA Security Lock & Cable.

h.) One of those travel pouches that you can put your passport and yellow vaccination card inside of. I prefer the one that straps around your hips like a belt, as opposed to the one that goes around your neck, and is worn under your shirt.

i.) I brought a handful of Chico bags. I used them all of the time. For grocery shopping, to keep my dirty clothes separate from my clean ones in my pack, to hold my clothes and bathroom supplies when I went into the bathroom in the hostels to shower, etc. Some of the best things I brought with me.


2. Clothing & Shoes -
a.) One pair of trail runners. They do not need to be waterproof. If you are a runner, you do not need to also bring road runners. Even if you are living in Nairobi where there are a lot of paved roads, you will not want to run on the paved roads near the cars because the exhaust fumes are so bad.

b.) One good pair of flip flops to explore in. I brought the Chaco Flip in solid black.

c.) If you bring flip flops with webbing like my Chacos, then they will get smelly if you wear them in the showers every day. So bring a second pair of cheap flip flops, to wear in the hostel showers that will dry between uses. If you forget them or don't want to pack them initially, then you can easily find them at a market or in a store in East Africa for a reasonable price.

d.) If you think you might spend more than a day or two in one of the slums then bring a pair of rain boots. The kind that everyone wears in the USA is fine - plastic, tall, brightly colored. It's just because when it rains, the dirt roads in the slums can get very muddy.

e.) If you are climbing Mt Kenya or Kilimanjaro, then you'll need hiking boots. (Obviously.) If you are not climbing, then you do not need hiking boots. If you are bringing hiking boots, then I think that they should be water proof, because of the altitude and climate - snow at the top - but double check elsewhere.

f.) You do not need an umbrella. You can buy one in East Africa, if you think you need one. But a lightweight, simple, packable rain jacket is sufficient. When it rains, it doesn't fall for very long and it's not that heavy. I brought rain pants, but never wore them.

g.) I brought Patagonia underwear and running socks made out of a blended fabric that didn't take forever to dry. I would bring more pairs next time, because I rarely stayed anywhere long enough to leave my stuff out to dry. In Uganda, there are mango flies that lay eggs in the seams of your clothes when the clothes are laid out wet, to dry. When the eggs hatch, the flies burrow under your skin. So you need to iron all of your seams (at the very least) after washing your clothes, before you put them back on your body. Clearly this is a hassle. The more underwear and socks you have, the less often you have to deal with this. You can pay the hostel staff to wash your clothes. I assume they iron them, too but I don't know - I was lucky enough to have friends I could stay with, who let me wash my clothes in their sinks and use their irons.

h.) The back of the knee is supposedly the sexist part of the woman's body. You cannot wear shorts that expose the backs of your knees. Not even in Nairobi, though of course you'll see tourists doing this. It is difficult to find shorts that don't expose the backs of your knees, but if you can find them then bring them for Uganda. It's hot! If you're staying in Kenya and aren't going to the coast, then I don't think you need shorts. Capri pants would be fine. I wore these shorts - Lole Pursuit 2 Bermuda Shorts. Whether they're long enough or not probably depends on the length of your thighs. Try em on before packing them. They just covered the backs of my knees.

i.) Same rule goes for skirts - you cannot show the backs of your knees. I had trouble finding skirts that were "short" but not "too short." I wound up with this one - Carve Designs High Point Skirt. If you go to Uganda, then you will be traveling around on the back of motorcycles. It is improper for a woman to ride straddled, so you will need to sit sidesaddle. Personally, I felt safer straddling the motorcycle, so I never wore my skirt on days when I knew I'd need to get on a motorcycle (which was most days). So perhaps skip the skirt entirely. A downside to my skirt, too was that it did not have any pockets, though it did dry quickly. I didn't wear it that much. I don't see any reason why you'd need/want a dress.

j.) You cannot show your shoulders or your chest (no deep scoop neck or deep v-neck shirts) in Kenya. This isn't the case in Uganda. If you are going to Uganda then bring at least one tank top. It's hot - you'll want it. Otherwise, for Kenya just bring short-sleeve shirts. You can wear tank tops on the beach in Kenya, which you'd probably want to do because it is hot. Though when at the beach I just walked around in my bikini top and my skirt, which you can also do - but only on the beach - not in town at the beach. Most of my wardrobe was black, so that it would not show dirt. I don't recommend white. The dirt is a red-brown, and if you are in a dusty environment ... well, your shirt won't be white any longer. Black is boring, at least it looks clean even when it's not:)

k.) Ugandan and Kenyan men wear button down shirts a lot. If you're a man then you might want to bring one. Women do not need button down shirts when "dressing up" is called for.

l.) I brought one pair of jeans, even though they take a long time to dry. I was happy that I brought them - I wore them often. Other than that, I wore a pair of black cotton yoga pants a lot, and a pair of very lightweight cotton cargo-style pants with straps and buttons that could be rolled up into capris, and a pair of generic every-day, cotton cargo-style pants with a decent number of pockets which came in handy. I also brought a pair of light brown khaki (dress) pants, and a pair of black cotton dress pants for business meetings. If you don't really need "dress" pants, then obviously don't bother bringing them. I didn't wear them very much. But if you think that you might need a dressy outfit, then bring it with you. You can find dresses and such in Nairobi in the western malls but the selection isn't going to be what you're accustomed to, and prices are high/geared towards westerners. However if you need dress shoes, then those are easy to find. In Nairobi you'll want to visit Bata, which is pretty much the equivalent of Payless for the best selection.

m.) It gets colder at night. Bring a wool sweater.

n.) I brought a black polyester zip up jacket intended for yoga or cycling, without a hood. I wore it a lot, with a t-shirt underneath. Was a must-have.

o.) I had a lightweight jacket that was water resistant. I wore it often enough. Perhaps you can leave the sweater home, if you bring a jacket like this.

p.) I did bring a beanie, because I'd been told that it could get cold at night in the highlands, but I never wore it. No need for a scarf or gloves, either:) But bring a few cotton handkerchiefs - you'll use them. I also brought a baseball hat, which I wore occasionally. And of course sunglasses.

q.) I brought one pair of short running shorts, but never felt comfortable wearing them in public. It's really hot to be running in long pants (which is what I think you are supposed to wear if running where other people can see you). As a result I didn't run that often. You might be able to find a modern gym that you can join, or at least pay by the visit. I assume you can wear short shorts in there ... ? Maybe stick with longer lacrosse style shorts?

r.) I brought a few long-sleeve cotton t-shirts, and one poly long-sleeve shirt that I wore rafting on the Nile. It was good for sun protection while rafting, but I otherwise didn't wear it. I mostly wore the long-sleeve cotton shirts at night - during the day a t-shirt and the zip up poly jacket were sufficient. At sundown and when the sun is down, you'll want to cover up as much of your body as possible, to avoid mosquito bites. So the long-sleeve shirts, pants, and socks are good. If you are planning to enter a mosque and you are a woman, then you will need to wear a skirt, cover your hair (with a scarf), and I think you need to cover your shoulders/wear long sleeves.

s.) Jewelry - don't bring or wear anything that looks valuable, even if it isn't actually valuable.


3.) Electronics -
a.) Perhaps the best thing I brought was a netbook. I bought an ASUS eee netbook on eBay, after much shopping and asking savvy friends for advice. I downloaded my photos onto it, used it to get online for personal reasons and for internet banking purposes. I heard that your digital camera can get a virus, if you connect it with a public computer in order to download photos. Not sure if that's true, but I think you'd get sufficient use out of your netbook to warrant bringing one, anyway. It's definitely worth it to bring a netbook as opposed to a laptop, especially if you are going to be traveling a lot/carting your computer around with you. My Timbuk 2 day bag was big enough to hold my netbook, which made things very convenient. However, people don't really go to movie theaters. There is only one commercial theater in Uganda - it's in a western style mall in Kampala, the country's capital, for example. Instead, people buy DVD's from street sellers, and watch them on their laptops. But my netbook didn't have a CD drive, so I couldn't watch any DVD's. Which really wasn't a big deal, but if you are going to be in East Africa for a long time then you might want a CD drive. Your computer's operating system MUST BE WINDOWS. Mine ran on Linux, and it caused problems because it was not compatible with the internet system. I had to have computer techs change my operating system over to Windows before I could gain access to the internet. Bring a neoprene case for your netbook, and an adapter for the outlet. The adapter you'll need for Uganda and Kenya is the same one that you'd use in Britain.


b.) I brought a digital camera, and looked after it. Never felt like it was in danger of being stolen. I didn't flash it in public, though by taking photos on the street, or in places where I'd draw attention to myself. I heard that I might want to bring an extra battery. This might be the case for you, if you feel that you HAVE TO take a photo of every single animal that you see in one day of a safari. There were a few cameras on my safari trip, and almost all of our camera batteries ran out by the end of the afternoon. But you can get photos from someone else on your safari trip (share photos), or just enjoy the view without needing to take a million photos. I don't have much of a zoom lense on my camera, and as a result my photos aren't that great, anyway - just nice memories. The hostels and the lodge that I stayed in when on safari in Maasai Mara National Park had outlets and power strips. So you can charge your batteries on the power strips. In some cases the building might run on a generator, and if that's the case then you might only be able to charge your battery on the power strips at night when the generator is turned on to power the lights. I personally would not leave my battery charging on the power strip unattended.

c.) If you are bringing a netbook or a laptop, then I don't think you need extra memory cards for your camera. Just be diligent about emptying the memory card when it gets full so that you have space for new photos. I brought a few thumb drives, and used them to back up my photos. I kept these thumb drives in a safe place. That way, if my computer had been stolen, I would still have my photos.

d.) You can bring your cell phone with you to Kenya and Uganda if it's a tri-band that runs on 900 and 1800. To check to see if your phone is compatible with Kenya and Uganda, remove the battery from the back of your phone and look underneath the battery. It should say something like "900/1800". Even if it says that, your phone must accept a SIM card. Even then, your phone must be "unlocked" so that you can put a different company's SIM card in your phone. You can have your phone "jailbreaked" but I looked into it, and it's a pricey endeavor. I have heard that you can sometimes get your iphone to work in East Africa, but you'll need to take care of that before you leave the USA. And even so, I've heard that the phone still doesn't always work. I wanted to have a cell phone on my person, when my plane landed in Nairobi. I bought one on eBay that I thought was unlocked and compatible (900/1800). However it must have been dropped in water, because once I got to Kenya it would not work. So that was not the best plan. People will tell you to just buy a phone when you get to East Africa. This is definitely the way to go!!!! Do not buy a phone at the airport - you will pay significantly more money for it - I looked into it, and it was twice the price of what the same phone cost at the stores in the city. Cell phones in East Africa are pre-paid, like Europe. No contract. There are a few competing cell phone companies. The most popular seems to be Safaricom in Kenya, and MTN in Uganda. So you'll go into a Safaricom store, and buy a cell phone. The cheapest one was about $10. You'll then have to buy a SIM card for your phone, which is only a few dollars. This is essentially your phone number. Each SIM card is a phone number. The cell phone company team member in the store will take the phone and SIM card, and activate it for you. If you remove a SIM card from your phone and it goes unused for 180 days, and it's a Safaricom SIM card, then it'll go bad and your number will be recycled - given to a new customer. Just FYI. Some Kenyans have multiple SIM cards/phone numbers. You can pop your SIM card/phone number out of your phone, and pop it into a new phone, or a friend's phone at any time. Once you have your phone and SIM card, and your phone has been activated, then you will need to buy minutes. You buy a scratch card - they're sold all over the place. The seller gets a commission from Safaricom, so I tried to buy my scratch cards from independent businesses. They can be purchased in a variety of cash values. I tried to keep at least a $5 balance on my phone at all times. The instructions for how to add minutes to your phone are on the scratch card - ask anyone to show you how to add the time to your phone. You buy the scratch cards in dollar amounts, not number of minutes. So you'd buy a card worth $5, for example, as opposed to a card worth 500 minutes. The price per minute varies based on where you are calling, and the time of day. Calling within East Africa from Kenya on Safaricom is something like 20 cents a minute. But calling the USA is something like 4 cents a minute. That's the same price as inter-Kenya calls, amazingly. I think you get a slightly cheaper rate if you make calls between 9pm and 4am. But of course like all cell phone companies, rates and promos are subject to change. If you travel outside of Kenya, then buy a new SIM card in your next country. As I mentioned, MTN is the biggest company in Uganda. If you use your Safaricom SIM card in Uganda, then you will be charged a roaming rate. I don't know what this rate is, but it's so easy to buy an MTN SIM card once in Uganda, that I just went with that. The phone system works the same way in Uganda. I don't recall how much it cost to call the USA, but I think it was relatively inexpensive from Uganda, too. In both Uganda and Kenya, you only pay for outgoing calls that you make from your phone. You are not charged for incoming calls - whether they are local or international. Same with text messaging - you only pay when sending messages, not receiving them. I think it's about 12 cents a text message to the USA, but it's really cheap if you are texting someone in Kenya. Don't buy a fancy phone, by the way - it'll make you a target for theft. Another good reason to leave the iphone in the USA. Even the most basic (cheapest) phone that I purchased had the necessities - text messaging, calculator, alarm clock - and flashlight. Yes, the Safaricom phones come with flashlights. You WILL use the flashlight!! Amazing feature.

e.) Internet in Uganda and Kenya - If your hostel offers free internet, then it's likely going to be wireless. So you don't need any contraption to get online - just the name of the network and password, just like the USA. Same with some coffee shops that cater to westerners, but I found them few and far between. Even when I found them, the connection was sometimes very slow. Easier to find internet cafes with cubicles and desktop computers, where there is a space where you can pay for wireless access for your laptop by the minute. If you do not have access to wireless, then you will need to buy a modem for your computer in order to get online. Again, I suggest buying one from the company Safaricom. (Though some people say that the company "Orange" has better access if you're working out in the bush, but not as good if you are in town. And Orange is more expensive than Safaricom - same with the phones.) The modem is about $22.

Once you have a Safaricom modem, you'll need to buy a SIM card for your use in your modem. Just like with your phone, you'll have to give both the modem and the SIM card to a Safaricom store employee so that the staff person can activate them. Once it's been activated, you will need to insert it into your computer in one of the same jacks that you use for your camera and ipod. You'll then need to download some software onto your computer, in order to use the modem. I think it'll pop up automatically on your screen, the first time you insert the modem into the computer jack. Then, you'll need to buy airtime to use the internet. The airtime you'll buy is the same airtime that you'll buy for your cell phone. You just apply the scratch card to your modem SIM card instead of your cell phone SIM card. I don't remember how to do this, but I'm sure that someone can explain it to you. I only used a Safaricom modem and purchased airtime for the first month that I was in East Africa, while living and working on Daraja's campus. After that, I used wireless at hostels or internet cafes. So there's a good chance you won't need a modem at all. I'd buy a phone, first, and then wait and see if you want/need a modem, instead of buying both when you first arrive in East Africa. If you are using a Safaricom modem, the internet speed varies based on where you are located when you are trying to access the internet. You are not charged by the minute that you are on the computer, but by how much "action" you are doing on the internet, and how fancy the web page is. Each time the page re-loads, you get charged by Safaricom. So steaming music from Spotify, videos on Youtube, or Facebook's home page which is constantly updating itself all cost more money. It is amazing how quickly you can burn through airtime if you are streaming or on Facebook.

f.) I brought my ipod, but only used it on the airplane. I did use the headphones, though - at hostels when watching videos or listening to music. While I'm thinking of sound, I'd bring earplugs and an eye mask if you are staying at hostels and are a light sleeper.


3. Misc to Pack -
a.) A journal and a few pens

b.) camping style clothes line - I brought this Coghlans Pegless Bungee Clothesline.

c.) Headlamp and extra batteries. The name brand batteries sold in Kenya are expensive. The cheaper ones run out really quickly. Even though your cell phone will have a flashlight built in, some places are so dark that you'll really want the headlamp.

d.) The Rough Guide to Kenya (better than Lonely Planet), and The Lonely Planet Guide for Uganda (Rough Guide doesn't make a book for Uganda). I would buy the most current edition, even if you can get an older one for less/free. Things like phone numbers change quickly in East Africa - you need the most current info. A novel to read. There are book stores in Nairobi and Kampala, but don't expect to find what you're looking for in more rural areas. There are book exchanges at some cafes and hostels, but I still say bring what you want. I read them on bus rides, mostly.

e.) You do not need to bring a mosquito net. Every place I stayed - with the exception of one hotel - had mosquito nets over the bunk beds in the hostels and over beds in hotel rooms. They were in perfectly good condition - no gaping holes.

f.) Sleeping bag liner. I won't sleep in a hostel or hotel bed without one - protects you from bugs. I looked into making my own, but it wound up to be cheaper and easier to just buy this one - Sea To Summit 100% Premium Silk Sleeping Bag Liner. It's also easy to hand wash in a sink, and air dries quickly. You don't need any other bedding - including a sleeping bag, unless you are planning to camp instead of staying in hostels, obviously - or if you are planning to climb Mt Kenya or Kilimanjaro. Even still, you can rent sleeping bags etc from expedition companies once you are in East Africa.

g.) Note: next time, I WON'T bring Bug spray - I brought a bottle of Adventure Medical Ben's 100 Max Deet Tick & Insect Repellent. Never used it. I don't like chemicals. Just covered my body with cotton clothing, instead.

h.) Hand sanitizer. I kept a little bottle in my bag, along with toilet paper, every where I went. I never expected a toilet stall to have toilet paper, or a sink nearby. Even if there's a sink, there may not be soap. You can buy little bottles of hand sanitizer at the grocery stores, too. Don't overload your travel bag with these things:)

i.) Nail Clippers & a nail file, hair brush and bands, tweezers (if you can't live without them, like me), a pair of scissors or a Swiss Army knife. This should be obvious, but if you use a hair dryer or any other electrified hair things, get used to living without them. I guess if you're living in Uganda for a while, then you might want to bring a very small travel iron for the mango flies in your clothes? You can probably find razor blades for your razor at the grocery store, or just buy a new razor. I brought extra blades with me, so I never had to look. I know you can find dental floss and other dental health items in the grocery stores:) The big grocery store chain is Nakumatt - in both Uganda and Kenya. But they aren't in every community. If there isn't a Nakumatt in your community (I'd look into it) then you might want to bring extra bathroom stuff if you have particular preferences.

A view of the inside of a Nakumatt - this is what it looks like if you just checked out. Looking back at the cashiers and rows of merchandise for sale, behind them - looks like a US grocery store. PS - if you are vegetarian or vegan, and if you are in Nairobi, then you will find the best selection of fake meat products and assorted other items that you might have a taste for at the Nakumatt located in the Westgate Mall. In my opinion it's the fanciest and nicest mall in Nairobi. You can buy organic bulk items (couscous, etc), the soy milk that you're used to, etc at Healthy U chain stores - but expect to pay much more than you'd pay in the US for the same items.



j.) Bathroom stuff - you will not find chemical-free, organic soaps, shampoos, lotion, lip balm, toothpaste in the grocery and beauty supply stores, no matter how much you are willing to pay for them. In Nairobi, there is a health food store chain called "Healthy U". They sell organic body products, but of course at a premium price. I was told that women's personal hygiene products - name brands - are more expensive in East Africa, so you should bring your own supply with you from the US. Maybe they were a little more expensive in East Africa, but given how much room that could take up in your pack, I don't think it's necessary to bring a huge supply of the items, with you. You can pick up what you need at Nakumatt.

k.) Sunscreen - I was under the impression that it'd be hard to find and/or expensive in East Africa, but as long as you can get to a Nakumatt then you can buy it there. But I'm glad that I brought one bottle of it - you'll need to wear it when you're outside for an extended amount of time.

l.) A nalgene bottle and baking soda to keep it clean. Be VERY CAREFUL with water consumption. You CANNOT use a water filter of any sort (no matter how expensive, how good, no matter WHAT the company says) to purify drinking water in Uganda or Kenya. You MUST drink bottled water, or boil water over the stove before drinking it, or cooking with it. If you boil water over the stove, then it must come to a rolling boil before it's safe to drink. I would not use any water purifier tablets or chemicals, to purify water. I bought large jugs of bottled water at the grocery store, and then poured some of it into a nalgene to make it easier to carry around with me on day trips. Kenya and Uganda DO NOT recycle, by the way.

m.) Towel - I brought a medium sized Sea to Summit microfiber quick-dry camping towel. It still takes some time to dry, but is the best you'll find. You really do not need one any bigger than size medium. It's just more to carry.

n.) Clif bars (never saw them in East Africa), and a set of utensils. I like the bamboo ones from To-Go Ware. They're lightweight and enviro-friendly. When you return to the USA do not put them in the dishwasher - it'll ruin the finish on the utensils. I didn't see plastic, disposable utensils at fast food joints in Kenya. oside from the Clif bars, I don't see a reason to bring any other food with you.

o.) Bring a photocopy of your passport. If you are trying to enter a government building, then you will need to leave your ID with security in the building lobby. They might accept a photocopy of your passport. A hard copy of important phone numbers. I scanned my passport, drivers license, vaccination immunization record yellow card, bank cards, health insurance cards and emailed the PDF documents to myself. That way I could always access them from any computer in East Africa, if I needed them. I also emailed important phone numbers to myself, so that I could also access them from any computer.


4. Medicine Stuff -
OK, I read and heard so much about this - what to pack. In the end, you can probably buy it in East Africa when you need it - assuming you'll have access to a Nakumatt in your community, a doctor, and a pharmacy. But don't rely on me - I'm not a doctor or a health care professional. One of the heaviest parts of my pack was my bag of medical supplies, which I almost never used. But some things I'd pack -
a.) A few bandaids

b.) Anti-itch cream

c.) hand sanitizer, as I already mentioned.

d.) A multi-vitamin and a B-complex vitamin.

e.) your anti-malarial. I took Malarone. Best price turned out to be "order by mail, in bulk" through my health insurance company. After that, Costco has a better price. Something to know is that Malarone only protects you against certain strands of malaria. Not all strands. So you could still get malaria, even if you are religiously taking your Malarone. I assume this is true for all anti-malarials. I don't know about Malarone, but you can buy Doxycycline at pharmacies in East Africa. You might need a prescription from a local doctor - not sure. I don't know if it's cheaper than buying it in the USA or not - I didn't really price it.

f.) DO NOT bring your own supply of cipro (antibiotic) with you, from the USA. My amazing doctor in Nairobi told me that for some reason the cipro from the USA does NOT work on East African diseases. You will need to buy cipro from an East African pharmacy.


5. Documents & Currency -
a.) Passport with a few blank pages (and a photocopy of it)

b.) Drivers License (just for photo ID purposes)

c.) I was told to bring a few passport-sized photos of myself, which I got at Coscto. However no one ever asked me for them.

d.) Yellow card - a record of your vaccinations proof on it that you've had the Yellow Fever vaccine

e.) You really DO NOT need US dollars in East Africa. The only time you will need US dollars is when you enter East Africa, and need to buy your first visa - most likely at the airport. Bring exact change. Check the current price in US dollars before you leave the USA.

f.) You do not need to bring foreign currency with you, purchased from a broker in the USA. You can just pull out some cash in the local currency, from an ATM at the airport. I crossed into Uganda from Kenya in the town of Busia, on the Uganda/Kenya border. There is a Barclay's ATM right there at the border, so you don't even need to bring the other country's currency with you. But I can only confirm that for Busia - I don't know about the other border crossing locations on the Kenya/Uganda border.

g.) Your US-based health insurance card. I don't know how that would work, since I didn't have reason to use it. Proof of Travel Insurance. I looked around a lot, and went with World Nomads. When seeking medical care in East Africa you will not be seen by a doctor, have your lab work done, or get treatment until you have pre-paid. You can pay in cash - just get your receipts. I never presented proof of health insurance - just paid over the counter, out of pocket for care.

h.) ATM card & credit card. Call your bank in advance and tell them your travel plans, so that you will be able to withdraw money and charge things in East Africa. I never used my credit card, nor used my ATM card as a debit card to pay for things. I always paid in cash - withdrew money in local currency from the ATM's. The ATM's you are most likely to see - Barclay's, Equity Bank. I tried to patronize Equity Bank ATM's because the Equity Bank Foundation does a lot of good things, and the bank was established to provide services to low-income East Africans who would not otherwise have access to a bank.

East Africa Day 101 (Mon Aug 22): NBO > LHR > EWR

By the time I finished updating this blog, packing, and cleaning up after myself I only had about thirty minutes left before my taxi arrived at 5am, to take me to the airport. I managed to close my eyes for a little bit, which I thought would help put a little bit of closure on my last day in East Africa.

When I went out to the compound gates a little before 5am with my things, the taxi I'd arranged for hadn't yet arrived. I spent a few minutes talking with the askari who was on duty at the guard booth, inside of the compound gates. He said that whenever he saw me, I always rushing in and out of the compound gate. He asked me if this was because I was afraid [to be out on the street]. He said that only he sees Americans walking down our street in groups. I was so surprised and entertained by the question. Scared? I explained that I was always running off for meetings and was afraid that I was going to be late, so that's why I was hustling through the compound gate. Nairobi ... it's been my home. Feeling badly that he thought I was scared of our street. I'm also conscious of the fact that I'm leaving the compound without saying goodbye to Donald, one of the other askaris who often asked me about my departure date. Ah well. I will be back!

The taxi driver pulled up at 5am, and helped me put my backpack, second tote bag, and day pack in the trunk. Then it was off to NBO. All summer I knew that I would be going to NBO on August 22, but somehow it still didn't feel quite right. I handed the driver the last of my Kenyan bills, and hauled my stuff out onto the sidewalk. Took a look at this sign hanging above the curb ... wistfully wishing I was heading to another country on the African continent.



Instead I was on my way to Heathrow. No problems clearing security, and then it was up to the gates. I had some extra time before my flight boarded, so I walked through the shops and listened to calls for the flights to Sudan. I went into a little book shop, became overwhelmed by the African-themed titles, and finally let the tears out. The summer was really over - time to go.

When I boarded my Virgin flight and started walking down the aisle, the company was playing a Michael Franti song over the loudspeakers. It made me smile - first time I'd heard his voice all summer - I felt like it was the USA welcoming me back. I didn't sleep much, and wasn't entirely impressed with the movie selection. The sound was skipping on the Jennifer Aniston movie that I wanted to watch. I wound up watching it anyway - twice.



When we landed at Heathrow, I went straight for the nearest water fountain, and marveled at the safe drinking water that came out of the spout. I had a few hours before my next flight. I walked around the airport - the closest I was going to get to London, on this trip. Still missing East Africa.



I sat down beneath a light board with gate announcements on it, to make sure I wouldn't miss my flight. More destinations that sounded pretty good:)



The entertainment system on my second flight was more high-tech than the first flight. Movies on demand. I first watched "Water for Elephants", because it rang a bell. Sad, but good. Next, I watched "Never Say Never". I knew that one of my sorority sisters works with Justin Bieber, but I almost fell out of my seat when I saw her in the beginning of the documentary. But it wasn't just the beginning - she was in the whole thing. It made the film even better, but I would have loved it anyway. If I could have jumped through that tiny screen and into the movie then I absolutely would have. It's a beautiful story - if you get to see it, then see it. I even love this trailer:)



I didn't have time to re-watch the documentary - some other time:) My flight landed at EWR (Newark, NJ) shortly thereafter, at about midnight. I somehow managed to be the very last person in line at immigration. The airport was pretty much empty. The immigration officer, when he saw how long I'd been in East Africa asked me if I was a missionary. Nope. But I guess he sees a lot of missionaries. Picked up my luggage and then that was it - welcome home, Nicole.

East Africa Day 100 (Sun Aug 21): This is It

... my last full day in Kenya and the end of my East Africa summer. It was full of last minute errands, photos to document every-day memories, and a visit to the University of Nairobi campus near my apartment compound.

The University of Nairobi campus is right down the street from my compound. While I'd intended to walk around campus and meet with University staff members, I didn't get there until today. Unfortunately it was a Sunday, so there were few students on the grounds. My road and this part of town is pretty noisy, so it was amazing how quiet it was on campus, once I passed through the arch and entered the inside of the compound. I wish the bookstore had been open - would have been fun to have seen what the students are reading in class.



Before I left for East Africa, I didn't know what to expect of Nairobi. I had heard that it wasn't that different from London. It is indeed a city! This is the view that I saw every day, when I walked down my block towards the city center.



I posted a photo of University Way, yesterday - as seen from the City Center, heading back to my apartment. This is another view of University Way, from the other direction - crossing over into the City Center. The road that was under construction all summer. I remember my first time crossing it, and how it intimidated me. Now? No sweat:)



I continued on into the City Center, and then down to the Hilton shopping mall near the Kenya National Archives building, to pick up a few things from some of the area shops. Doing my best to leave Kenya without any shillings to exchange into dollars! I then jumped on a bus, and went out to Ngong Road to pick up one last medicine from a pharmacy, that I needed to bring home with me.

There's a big bus terminal (of sorts) between the Hilton complex and the Kenya National Archives building. I used to go here to pick up one particular bus, because that bus was always full by the time it got to the terminal on Kenyatta Ave, which was a shorter walking distance to my compound. I knew that I would miss the buses, so I snapped this photo before jumping on to head out to Ngong Road.



I stopped off at the Yaya Centre for the last time, and happened up on the Maasai Market! Apparently it's there in the parking lot outside of Yaya every Sunday, but I never happened upon it. Fortunately I had very little currency left at this point, so I managed to walk through the Maasai Market without spending anything. Amazing!



I then headed back to the apartment, packed up, cooked my last meal in the kitchen, called local friends on the phone to say goodbye, and caught up on my blog from my mosquito net-enclosed bed.



I used to sit on my bed with my pillow behind me, surrounded by the mosquito net, on my netbook listening to usually Taylor Swift, the Zac Brown Band, or Sara Bareilles. This was my view!


And so ends my last day in Kenya.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

East Africa Day 99 (Sat Aug 20): Final Doctor’s Visit

I did a decent job of sleeping on the overnight bus back to Nairobi. We arrived at 5am, earlier than expected. When the sun rose I headed back to my apartment and took a shower and a nap, before heading back to the Centre for Tropical and Travel Medicine for my last (?) round of tests.



I saw Dr. Chunge’s wife, Dr. Ruth, for the first time. She runs the lab and is a top pathologist. She was surprised that I had not been tested for bilharzia, since I’d been in the Nile River twice this summer. She said that almost everyone she sees who has been in the Nile has bilharzia. Unfortunately my results won’t be ready until Monday after I’ve departed for the USA so I was given a prescription for the med just in case, and picked it up after my appointment. We re-did the stool, urine and blood tests. I waited for the lab results, and learned that I still have one of the diseases, but that it should be gone in five days. Then of course I still have the one that we just started treating about a week ago. Uhh I am SO TIRED of being sick, and even more so of worrying about catching something else. (As much as I love CTTM:)

That was the excitement of the day!

Heading home from the CBD ("town") to my compound, I was inspired to take this photo of the road that I have to cross every time I go anywhere. It's called University Way. The first time I crossed it, on my way to see the apartment for the first time, I thought it was the most dangerous road a pedestrian could ever have to cross without a bridge or any sort of traffic signals. But now, of course ... I'm used to it:) That's not to imply that I'll MISS it:)


photo: looking north from the CBD towards my apartment compound. The white vehicle is a matatu.

East Africa Day 98 (Fri Aug 19): Diani Beach

I got up early this AM, took what is likely my last cold African shower for the summer, and checked out of the hotel shortly after the sun rose. Headed down to the Ferry, so that I could leave the island that is Mombasa, bound for the southern coast. I decided on Diani Beach because my friend Elissa had volunteered there with a sea turtle organization at the end of last year, and had good things to say about it. A fellow Daraja volunteer spent a week there this summer, before coming to Daraja and had liked it. Plus, it was a short matatu ride from Mombasa, which was key because I was very limited on time.

Even though I was doing the reverse commute – crossing the ferry heading out of the city in the AM, then south – it was still relatively crowded when I got to the ferry gates. There was a Kenyan in front of me carrying one of the bales of used clothing. It was a clear plastic bag (as usual) and had a label (as usual) on it that said “Bed Clothes”. I wondered where he was taking it, for re-sale, and where the clothes had come from. Lately I’ve been seeing a lot of New York Yankees clothing on Kenyans … I think New York is calling me home:) I waited for maybe 10 minutes before the gates opened and we were all let down the ramp to board the ferry. Cars and bicycles joined us. Unfortunately no photos permitted. Interestingly there were only two other wazungu boarding the ferry with me – where are the other tourists? :)

Once we got to the other side (about a 10 minute ride) I followed the Kenyans up the hill, and found the matatu park. Jumped into a matatu that would be stopping off at Diani Beach. Unfortunately that matatu broke down somewhere enroute to Diani, and there was much discussion between the passengers and driver in Swahili. Uhh one of those times I mildly wished I could communicate in Swahili. Anyway, the broken down matatu put us on two other matatus that pulled up behind us minutes later, and paid for all of our fares. I was then on my way to Diani. It was a short trip – maybe 20 minutes.

When I got into town in Diani, I had to board another matatu to take me to the beach. When I got close to the beach I found it was a series of resorts on the left (coast side) and tourist-related business strip malls on the right-hand side of the road.
I exited the matatu in a random spot on the road that looked just as good as any other, and walked into a tourist center to ask for directions and advice. I was told to cross back to the coast side of the road, walk 100 yards down to a restaurant/resort called Two Thieves, and use it’s pathways to access the beach (which is entirely public).

I followed the road down to the coast, and walked through the dining area/ lounge/bar to get to the beach. It was beautiful – white sand, light blue water, all sunshine even though it wasn’t even 10am.



Having read that there are many “beach boys” on the coast, but that the hotel/resort askari’s are good at keeping them at bay, I walked down the beach to the first busy-looking beach-front resort, and laid down in the sand to read my book and relax. But not before encountering my first Beach Boy, who essentially escorted me to the resort and left me there. There were a lot of wazungus at the resort, and some in the warm water. It was very relaxing. A Kenyan walked by with a chain of four or five camels, outfitted I think for camel rides. I can’t remember the last time I saw a camel this close. They are beautiful animals, and so big and peaceful looking! It rained very lightly on and off. But who cares – we were all wearing bathing suits, anyway. First time I’d shown that much skin since … I don’t know when, given that it’s extremely inappropriate to even show your shoulders in East Africa. And here I was wearing a bikini. (Which is appropriate on the beach.) Was soooo nice! Even in the rain!

After maybe an hour of that, I started walking south along the coast to see what else there was to see. Not that much – more beach boys, some vendors, many resorts, some boats, some kite surfers, swimmers – and a lot of beautiful sand and OCEAN! :) I imagined the world map in front of me, and the coastline where I was walking – that kind of put it in perspective – walking along the coast in East Africa! I had so much fun splashing in the warm water, as I walked.

When I got quite a bit further down (maybe after walking 1.5 hours) I came to a sand bar that extended far out into the water. People had walked from the beach to the edge of the sandbar, pretty far out into the ocean. It was amazing!



Of course I had to head out there. I met some nice tourists and we switched out cameras. I got some pretty decent photos, I think:)


photo: on the sandbar, looking towards the shore.





From there I headed south for maybe another 30 minutes towards the Tanzanian border. I then decided that I really had to turn around, so that I could get back to Mombasa in time to catch my overnight bus back to Nairobi. I started walking up north, but first stopped to check out some of the resorts.



They were really beautiful – pools, beachfront bars, lots of lounge chairs, and music. I can see why people like to vacation here, though I think if all you do when you come to Kenya is visit a resort, then you are really missing out on the country.

On the way north I seemed to run into plastic waste along the water’s edge, where I hadn’t seen it on the way down south. (And some beautiful shells – but take only photographs, leave only footprints.)



I picked it all up and dropped it off at resorts along the way. One resort employee thanked me for taking care of the marine life, and another really didn’t want to bother with taking it from me. Most interesting were the two bits of brightly colored flip flop bottoms that I found in two different parts of the beach. They'd both been out there for ages - I could barely tell what they were. It was an interesting informal survey into Rise Above Plastics, I guess:) Speaking of, I was inspired to continue to pick up trash by the Surfrider kids who have campaigns encouraging people to pick up even three pieces of trash. At first, when I was seeing very little trash I thought maybe it's not worth picking it up, but then I thought - "no, the kids say that picking up even three pieces matters":)

After walking even further north (past the point where I’d first entered the beach) I exited through another resort back to the road, where I caught a matatu headed to the ferry.

Crossed the water on the ferry, and then walked back through town to the bus station. Waited in the lounge for my bus to board at almost 10pm, and then it was an overnight bus ride back to Nairobi that was due to arrive in Nairobi at 6am the next day. Just in time to visit the Centre for Tropical and Travel Medicine before they close!