Sunday, August 21, 2011

East Africa Day 99 (Sat Aug 20): Final Doctor’s Visit

I did a decent job of sleeping on the overnight bus back to Nairobi. We arrived at 5am, earlier than expected. When the sun rose I headed back to my apartment and took a shower and a nap, before heading back to the Centre for Tropical and Travel Medicine for my last (?) round of tests.



I saw Dr. Chunge’s wife, Dr. Ruth, for the first time. She runs the lab and is a top pathologist. She was surprised that I had not been tested for bilharzia, since I’d been in the Nile River twice this summer. She said that almost everyone she sees who has been in the Nile has bilharzia. Unfortunately my results won’t be ready until Monday after I’ve departed for the USA so I was given a prescription for the med just in case, and picked it up after my appointment. We re-did the stool, urine and blood tests. I waited for the lab results, and learned that I still have one of the diseases, but that it should be gone in five days. Then of course I still have the one that we just started treating about a week ago. Uhh I am SO TIRED of being sick, and even more so of worrying about catching something else. (As much as I love CTTM:)

That was the excitement of the day!

Heading home from the CBD ("town") to my compound, I was inspired to take this photo of the road that I have to cross every time I go anywhere. It's called University Way. The first time I crossed it, on my way to see the apartment for the first time, I thought it was the most dangerous road a pedestrian could ever have to cross without a bridge or any sort of traffic signals. But now, of course ... I'm used to it:) That's not to imply that I'll MISS it:)


photo: looking north from the CBD towards my apartment compound. The white vehicle is a matatu.

East Africa Day 98 (Fri Aug 19): Diani Beach

I got up early this AM, took what is likely my last cold African shower for the summer, and checked out of the hotel shortly after the sun rose. Headed down to the Ferry, so that I could leave the island that is Mombasa, bound for the southern coast. I decided on Diani Beach because my friend Elissa had volunteered there with a sea turtle organization at the end of last year, and had good things to say about it. A fellow Daraja volunteer spent a week there this summer, before coming to Daraja and had liked it. Plus, it was a short matatu ride from Mombasa, which was key because I was very limited on time.

Even though I was doing the reverse commute – crossing the ferry heading out of the city in the AM, then south – it was still relatively crowded when I got to the ferry gates. There was a Kenyan in front of me carrying one of the bales of used clothing. It was a clear plastic bag (as usual) and had a label (as usual) on it that said “Bed Clothes”. I wondered where he was taking it, for re-sale, and where the clothes had come from. Lately I’ve been seeing a lot of New York Yankees clothing on Kenyans … I think New York is calling me home:) I waited for maybe 10 minutes before the gates opened and we were all let down the ramp to board the ferry. Cars and bicycles joined us. Unfortunately no photos permitted. Interestingly there were only two other wazungu boarding the ferry with me – where are the other tourists? :)

Once we got to the other side (about a 10 minute ride) I followed the Kenyans up the hill, and found the matatu park. Jumped into a matatu that would be stopping off at Diani Beach. Unfortunately that matatu broke down somewhere enroute to Diani, and there was much discussion between the passengers and driver in Swahili. Uhh one of those times I mildly wished I could communicate in Swahili. Anyway, the broken down matatu put us on two other matatus that pulled up behind us minutes later, and paid for all of our fares. I was then on my way to Diani. It was a short trip – maybe 20 minutes.

When I got into town in Diani, I had to board another matatu to take me to the beach. When I got close to the beach I found it was a series of resorts on the left (coast side) and tourist-related business strip malls on the right-hand side of the road.
I exited the matatu in a random spot on the road that looked just as good as any other, and walked into a tourist center to ask for directions and advice. I was told to cross back to the coast side of the road, walk 100 yards down to a restaurant/resort called Two Thieves, and use it’s pathways to access the beach (which is entirely public).

I followed the road down to the coast, and walked through the dining area/ lounge/bar to get to the beach. It was beautiful – white sand, light blue water, all sunshine even though it wasn’t even 10am.



Having read that there are many “beach boys” on the coast, but that the hotel/resort askari’s are good at keeping them at bay, I walked down the beach to the first busy-looking beach-front resort, and laid down in the sand to read my book and relax. But not before encountering my first Beach Boy, who essentially escorted me to the resort and left me there. There were a lot of wazungus at the resort, and some in the warm water. It was very relaxing. A Kenyan walked by with a chain of four or five camels, outfitted I think for camel rides. I can’t remember the last time I saw a camel this close. They are beautiful animals, and so big and peaceful looking! It rained very lightly on and off. But who cares – we were all wearing bathing suits, anyway. First time I’d shown that much skin since … I don’t know when, given that it’s extremely inappropriate to even show your shoulders in East Africa. And here I was wearing a bikini. (Which is appropriate on the beach.) Was soooo nice! Even in the rain!

After maybe an hour of that, I started walking south along the coast to see what else there was to see. Not that much – more beach boys, some vendors, many resorts, some boats, some kite surfers, swimmers – and a lot of beautiful sand and OCEAN! :) I imagined the world map in front of me, and the coastline where I was walking – that kind of put it in perspective – walking along the coast in East Africa! I had so much fun splashing in the warm water, as I walked.

When I got quite a bit further down (maybe after walking 1.5 hours) I came to a sand bar that extended far out into the water. People had walked from the beach to the edge of the sandbar, pretty far out into the ocean. It was amazing!



Of course I had to head out there. I met some nice tourists and we switched out cameras. I got some pretty decent photos, I think:)


photo: on the sandbar, looking towards the shore.





From there I headed south for maybe another 30 minutes towards the Tanzanian border. I then decided that I really had to turn around, so that I could get back to Mombasa in time to catch my overnight bus back to Nairobi. I started walking up north, but first stopped to check out some of the resorts.



They were really beautiful – pools, beachfront bars, lots of lounge chairs, and music. I can see why people like to vacation here, though I think if all you do when you come to Kenya is visit a resort, then you are really missing out on the country.

On the way north I seemed to run into plastic waste along the water’s edge, where I hadn’t seen it on the way down south. (And some beautiful shells – but take only photographs, leave only footprints.)



I picked it all up and dropped it off at resorts along the way. One resort employee thanked me for taking care of the marine life, and another really didn’t want to bother with taking it from me. Most interesting were the two bits of brightly colored flip flop bottoms that I found in two different parts of the beach. They'd both been out there for ages - I could barely tell what they were. It was an interesting informal survey into Rise Above Plastics, I guess:) Speaking of, I was inspired to continue to pick up trash by the Surfrider kids who have campaigns encouraging people to pick up even three pieces of trash. At first, when I was seeing very little trash I thought maybe it's not worth picking it up, but then I thought - "no, the kids say that picking up even three pieces matters":)

After walking even further north (past the point where I’d first entered the beach) I exited through another resort back to the road, where I caught a matatu headed to the ferry.

Crossed the water on the ferry, and then walked back through town to the bus station. Waited in the lounge for my bus to board at almost 10pm, and then it was an overnight bus ride back to Nairobi that was due to arrive in Nairobi at 6am the next day. Just in time to visit the Centre for Tropical and Travel Medicine before they close!

East Africa Day 97 (Thurs Aug 18): All Aboard for the Kenyan Coast!

As I mentioned in one of last week’s posts, I’ve been hoping to visit the Kenyan coast before I leave East Africa on Monday. Today was the day! I got up before the sun came up and power walked over to the area in town where the bus companies have their offices. Fortunately one of my first choice companies still had a spot on one of the buses that was leaving in about 30 minutes for Mombasa, the biggest Kenyan city on the coast. I purchased a ticket and sat down to wait for my bus to load. It was kind of like Greyhound, not that I really ride Greyhound in the USA:) Comfortable enough, though it was a long ride. We reached Mombasa a little after 4pm, with only one bathroom/food break at a gas station/rest stop.

I was not particularly impressed with the level of cleanliness and order that I found in Mombasa. The Rough Guide warned that it is dirtier than Nairobi. The sidewalks aren’t exactly there, and when they are, they were very crowded. I mainly walked in the street. This was one of those afternoons when I looked around, noticed that 99% of the time I was the only muzungu around in a not-so-great area where I had no idea where I was (though in broad daylight), and wondered if I am brave and particularly well-adjusted to East Africa travel, or if I might just be lacking some common sense. Well, it was another adventure that ended perfectly well!

I tried to navigate the busy, very dirty roads in a direction that I hoped led to a view of the ocean. Didn’t find that, but I did wind up in back alleys that were neighborhoods – ones that felt absolutely nothing like East Africa. I could have been on another continent entirely. It was amazing. Best I can say is that it was kind of like Venice, Italy. After a while of aimlessly wandering in what I suspected were circles, I sat down on some “nice” concrete steps in front of a bank, to read the novel I recently started “Love In A Time of Cholera”.

Another one of Sowmya’s friends, Wilson was meeting up with me at 5:30pm. Wilson is Kenyan, and teaches Peace Studies at Mombasa Polytechnic, one of Kenya’s public universities. He offered to meet up with me for dinner, and advise me on my research. This was one of the reasons I came to the coast. He found me on the steps before 5:30pm.

We jumped into a three-wheeled tin toy-looking car, and were taken to Fort Jesus, the main historic site in Mombasa.



It had just closed, but we walked around the outside and I saw my first glimpse of the ocean off of the Kenyan coast. Beautiful! Again, it reminded me of Venice.





We took a walk along the coastline, and then Wilson showed me the old part of the city. Again, it reminded me of Venice. (We also saw some wazungu tourists, which made me feel better:)






We then headed to a Chinese restaurant for dinner. I got eggplant deep-fried with black bean sauce. Well-cooked (hopefully not contaminated) and delicious!

After dinner, Wilson walked me to my hotel and we parted ways. It was a bit of a loud night – with the call to prayer, the overnight buses departing for their long trips, and general street noise. (Muslims pray five times a day. Each prayer seems to be fully conducted over a loudspeaker system, with the loudspeaker set outside of the building so that the entire neighborhood can hear it. There are many Muslims in Mombasa.) My room had a TV that had Al Jazeera. I left it on all night – novelty of having a TV, (somewhat) drowned out the street noise, plus the first time I’ve watched Al Jazeera on a TV set:)

East Africa Day 96 (Wed Aug 17): Kenya High School Tour, Last Day at Equity Congress & Health Update

This past weekend I realized that I needed to squeeze a visit to Kenya High School into the schedule! I was so lucky that the Principal, Rosemary, who I had been introduced to back in May, was able to accommodate my request to visit campus this AM. She introduced me to Margaret, who has been teaching History at KHS for the past 25 years! I took a matatu over to the KHS campus this AM – a neighborhood I’d never been to. It was absolutely beautiful to my eyes – in that it reminded me of suburban New York:) I walked up a driveway to the KHS gates and saw an absolutely amazingly beautiful campus that looks more like a private US university campus than anything I’ve yet seen in East Africa.



Margaret later explained that the school recently celebrated its 100 year anniversary. The campus was constructed by the British, and was used to educate British children until Kenyan Independence, when it began accepting African Kenyan children. It’s now a girls secondary school, run by the Kenyan government – yet it’s a top tier “national” school. I wanted to visit because if you look at the list of the Top 10 Girls from last year’s KCSE exam, six of those girls attended KHS. They have to be doing something right – I was very curious to learn more about what the school!



Margaret took me into the Administration Building, and we sat in the lobby outside of the Principal’s office for over an hour, talking. I hadn’t prepared a list of questions before my visit, but I wasn’t short on things to ask her that’s for sure!

Some interesting things I learned – the school has five dorms (called “hostels” in Kenya.) Each dorm is a mix of students from all four grades/forms. The Form 1’s share large dormitory rooms, the Form 2’s share smaller dormitory rooms (all with bunk beds), the Form 3’s share suites, and the Form 4’s each have their own room with a bed and a desk (called a “cubicle”.)

Each newly arrived Form 1 student is given a “school mom” in Form 2. From my understanding, the structure works exactly the same as the Lehigh A Chi O family trees. A Form 1 has a “school mom” in Form 2, a “school grandmother” in Form 3, and a “school great-grandmother” in Form 4. So each KHS student is part of a lineage – I believe that was even the term that Margaret used, which is exactly the same word used in A Chi O. Naturally I found this all very appealing, given how much I love the A Chi O family trees:) When a student reaches Form 4, their “school mom” has graduated, so the Form 4 receives a member of the faculty as a personal coach/mom. I learned a lot of other very interesting things, but that was one of my favorites:)

Form 3 and Form 4 students were on campus, but they were in class so I didn’t meet any of the students. I did get to peer into a classroom and saw the students in class, though!


photo: a classroom. Note the beautiful floor!

Margaret told me that the Kenyan Government requires all secondary schools to administer a mock KCSE exam prior to the actual administration of the exam, so that the Government has a score for each student, just in case something happens and the students cannot take the KCSE. (Margaret said that everyone began to understand the need for this when post-election violence meant that the KCSE did not happen on schedule, that year.) So the Form 4 students were getting ready to take their mock KCSE exam at KHS.

Margaret gave me a great tour of campus – I saw the beautiful computer lab, classrooms, cafeteria, outside of the dorm buildings, the outdoor in-ground pool (swimming lessons are part of the curriculum), the inside and outside of the school library, the outside of the school church, and the faculty offices where each faculty member has a desk and a locker. What an amazing place to be a student! I was so thankful for the time that Margaret spent with me!


photo: library



photo: Church

I then rushed over to Kenyatta University, to catch the second Centres of Excellence presentation, which had been scheduled for 2pm. In arrived at the lunch hour, and got to have lunch in the Equity Staff dining room with the young women who have been running the Pre-University Student sessions. I was so glad that I got to see and say goodbye to them! I mentioned that I had learned that morning that my brother, Justin had been in a bad accident, and they made me feel better.



Unfortunately the Centres of Excellence presentation was pushed back, and I had to leave before it started. Ah well – at least I got to attend the session with the students and Rosemary last week, and got to hear part of yesterday’s presentation!

I had to rush back into town, to get to my follow up appointment with Dr. Chunge at the Centre for Tropical and Travel Medicine. We discussed how I have been feeling since starting the new med last week. He assured me that based on my appearance and report, that I was likely in significantly better health. I won’t be cleared of one of the diseases for another month or so. Since my typhoid vaccine that I received in the US failed, the office gave me another typhoid shot. It’s good for 2.5 – 3 years. Hmmm … where am I going to, next? :) I also had to get two B12 shots, which might be the most painful ones that I’ve gotten this year. But that should address some symptoms I’ve been experiencing. I love going to CTTM – each visit is a learning experience! There’ll be one more of those – Dr. Chunge and I decided that I should come back to the Clinic one more time for more lab tests, before I depart Kenya for the USA. That will have to be Saturday morning, because that’s the last time that they will be open before Monday, when I fly back to NY.

Again, another day that I made it back to the compound just in time for the sunset … or maybe a little bit after that …

East Africa Day 95 (Tues Aug 16): KenSAP Meeting & Equity Centres of Excellence

I went back to Kenyatta University’s campus this AM, hoping to catch the Pre-University students, who were part of the 2011 Centres of Excellence give one of their two presentations. I learned that the presentation would take place at 2pm. Yes!



In the AM the students were broken up into groups. Each group met with principals from Kenya’s top high schools for discussions about community service. I walked around the Congress grounds and listened in on the discussions.





I also got to meet Kilonzo, one of the Directors of the Education Pillar. He was born in Kenya but was raised in the US, and only recently returned to Kenya with his family. We had such an interesting conversation about the differences between US and Kenyan education systems, and the goals of the Education Pillar. I’m so glad that I happened to meet him – it was a very enlightening conversation! I caught a little bit more of the talks afterwards, including a session where students were invited to raise their hands and speak about how they could address problems. It was really interesting to hear the problems that the students identified and their solutions.

I then met up with one of the KenSAP founders, Mike, for lunch in the nearby Kenyatta University Conference Centre Cafeteria. We were joined by his wife, Lillian, who also teaches at the University. I was so excited to meet them and learn more about KenSAP!

I’d heard about KenSAP from three different persons, while conducting my research – Purity at Akili Dada, Mari Nelson at the American Educational Advising Center, and Daniel an Equity Pre-University Scholar who is about to begin his freshman year at UPenn that I met at the Equity Congress last week. So I finally looked into KenSAP over the weekend, and was so impressed. I found a contact for KenSAP on the website and requested an informational interview.

KenSAP was counded in 2004 by Mike and John. Since then they have helped fifty five Kenyans gain admission and full scholarships to top US universities (including Lehigh!) based on academic merit and athletic ability. Mike is a former member of the Kenyan Olympic Team and a world-class runner. Mike and John met when John was in the Peace Corps in Kenya. When Mike was in the US for the Olympics, John called him up and they eventually co-founded KenSAP, after working to get Mike’s son into a US university, and observing how challenging that was, even though Mike had attended US universities (including Stanford for two masters degrees) and John is a Harvard alum, so they were familiar with the college application process.

I learned that the KenSAP scholars live together for several weeks over the summer, where they are mentored through the US university application process. The students run with a Kenyan running coach each AM, and are tutored during the day by American university students or recent graduates who have successfully navigated the application process themselves and are therefore very familiar with it! The Americans get to live on campus and run with the students, thereby benefitting from Kenyan training conditions, making the Americans more competitive when they return to the USA. I’m sure you can already tell that I immediately started imagining what it would be like, to be a KenSAP summer teacher:)

Mike and Lillian are hands-on here in Kenya, while John helps the students get settled in the USA when they get to the US for university. Mike and Lillian found that they had to turn away such amazing students because they just didn’t have room for them in the KenSAP program. So last year Lillian started her own program for talented boys and girls, to help them through the US university application process. She has also been very successful, and hopes to continue to grow the program (which does not have a running component, that I know of.) It is obvious that Mike and Lillian are very passionate about the work that they do, and that they’ll keep doing it for a very long time. I felt so lucky to get to meet them today! I’m hoping to get to catch up with John when I get back to the USA.



After lunch I headed back to the Equity Congress for the Centres of Excellence 2pm presentation. Unfortunately it was pushed back, and I only got to stay for the first part of the presentation before the sun began to lower in the sky, and I knew that I needed to start home if I was going to make it to the compound before sunset. But the part that I did hear of the presentation was excellent! A handful of the Pre-University mentors sat in the special chairs set up behind the podium, in matching Equity polo shirts.



Rosemary introduced them to the rest of the Equity Congress students, and gave a brief overview of the program.



Then a mentor took the podium one at a time, to present on a different topic. I only saw the first topic, and then the beginning of the second. The first topic was Time Management, and the second was Mentor and Mentee Relationships. It was so interesting to hear the mentors speak. The first speaker – the only one I saw in full – basically took his observations from his time at the secondary school where he was teaching/mentoring and his own personal experiences as a top secondary school student, and turned it into a motivational speech full of practical, specific tips for the students in the audience. Personally, I thought it was extremely well done. Again, my camera didn’t allow me to capture the full speech due to limited memory, but I got the last part.

INSERT VIDEO ... at a later date ... taking too long to upload to YouTube tonight. IN the meantime here's a still photo of the Pre-University mentor speaking ...



I made it home just as the sun was setting … or errr maybe a little after that. I am becoming an expert on this:)

East Africa Day 94 (Mon Aug 15): Coffee with Edith & Orphan Elephant Tuck In

My friend from San Francisco, Sowmya recently took graduate level courses in Austria and Costa Rica. As a result, she has friends all over the world. She had introduced me to her friend, Edith from Cameroon over email before I left the USA for East Africa, because Edith is in Nairobi for the summer. Edith and I finally met up today!

Edith is staying with her Aunt and Uncle this summer. They live in Nairobi and run A Global Healthcare Public Foundation, which they co-founded a number of years ago. Her aunt and uncle consult for medical labs in East Africa – training the lab technicians, etc - and then use the funds to support healthcare projects in several countries including Kenya. Edith is working for the Foundation in Public Relations. She is also conducting research for her thesis, for her graduate program where she met Sowmya. She is researching the relationship between Indian Kenyans and African Kenyans. I asked many questions and loved hearing about her aunt and uncle’s work, her family, job prospects in Cameroon (fortunately she found a great job in development, and starts in a matter of weeks!), and weddings in Cameroon. (She’s planning her wedding!) It was really, really nice to get to sit with her in the Foundation’s conference room, and to get to know her. I’m so thankful to Sowmya for the introduction!



I then took the bus (and then a matatu) over to Nairobi National Park’s David Sheldrick Trust to “tuck in” the orphan baby elephant that I’d signed up to sponsor for a year, when I visited the orphanage a few weeks ago. What an adventure that was. I first got off the bus at the wrong gate to the park, then jumped into a matatu full of Kenyan teenagers, where the guy collecting the cash tried to overcharge me but I wasn’t going to stand for that, then I got off at the wrong stop and wound up walking down the road, where I finally found the right gate to enter the park for the Trust, but then got lost once I entered the park. Two park employees driving a big Kenya Wildlife Agency truck pulled up, and offered me a ride to the Trust. They dropped me off in the parking lot, which was hilarious since the lot was full of private safari vehicles and a lot of wazungu American tourists. The only time I see American tourists is when I walk by the Fairmont Hotel in the early mornings and see Americans eating breakfast on the porch, or when I am at the Trust to see the orphan elephants.

There weren’t many people there – though I guess that’s because I had to pre-register for the event, and the Trust only allows a certain number of sponsors to come for the Tuck-In each night. I heard one woman talking about NYC, and asked her where she was from – Westchester County, on the opposite side of the Hudson River from my hometown. Last time I was at the Trust, the woman on line in front of me to sign up to sponsor an orphan baby elephant was from NYC. I did say that the Trust has a lot of American supporters:) Maybe I should be specific and say perhaps even many New Yorkers:)
However this evening I also met a really nice woman from Fort Collins, CO and some Europeans.

So we were escorted into the Trust grounds at about 5pm. We were first taken to the paddock where the blind rhino lives.



The Trust tried to re-introduce him to his mom who had rejected him because of his blindness, but she would not accept him. The Trust even tried to operate to restore his sight, but it was impossible to correct and he remains blind. So he lives in the paddock because it is too dangerous to let him out into Nairobi National Park during the day, alone. There is another orphaned rhino at the Trust though that the blind rhino adores, so he lives a happy life! As I mentioned in the last post where I recapped my initial visit to the Trust, the staff are wonderful, too.

As we stood looking at the rhino in the paddock, we turned around to watch the first of two groups of baby orphan elephants returning to the Trust property with their handlers, from their day spent in Nairobi National Park.

They walked in a line right by us, and right to their respective stalls.




photo: Mutara's stall is on the left.

We followed them, and got to watch as the handler in each stall fed his baby elephant mlik from the baby bottle, put a blanket over the elephant, and made sure that it had branches with leaves on them to feed on, and just generally supervised the elephant as it got ready for bed.


photo: Mutara getting her bedtime bottle.

We were welcomed to walk around the Trust property to visit the different stalls, and to talk with the handlers in each stall and observe the elephants.

I learned that each elephant has its own self-determined bed-time, and that it usually goes to bed at the same time each night. The little/youngest ones go to bed first because they are so tired from their days in the park. The handlers are with the elephants 24/7, so the handler sleeps in a bunk in their elephant’s stall.

After maybe 15 minutes, the second group of elephants returned from the park with their handlers and went into their stalls. I didn’t see this group walk up and into their stalls, but I found my sponsored elephant, Mutara soon after she entered her stall. I got to watch her drink her bottle of milk, and then the antics began. Oh, I love this elephant! First, her handler tried to put a blanket on her back. But she decided to pull it off, using her trunk and tried to dump it onto the ground in her stall (the floor is covered in straw, just like horses).



The handler grabbed it from her, and put it in a safe place on the side of the stall. Then she stuck herself underneath the handler’s bunk bed, and crossed both her front and rear legs, while scratching herself against the wall. She stuck her trunk up onto the bed, and it looked like she might be trying to cause some trouble because the handler kept trying to shoo her away from it.



One of the other handlers told me that the baby elephants, when they get hungry, will wake their handlers up at all hours by literally pulling the handlers off of their bunks and onto the floor. So maybe he was trying to discourage Mutara from getting any ideas, here:) She then came over to the stall door (the bottom half of which was closed, but the top half was open so that we could all watch). She opened her mouth and rubbed it against the top of the door, as if she was showing off her teeth.



She let the three of us who were watching her pet her, and scratch what we thought might be itchy. She generally put on a huge show for us. It was hilarious. Totally obvious that she was loving the attention! I couldn’t help but wonder how she’d like being in the wild, without human beings to tell her how pretty she is:) But she’s a wild elephant, and I will be glad the day that she leaves the Trust and is released in Tasvo National Park! I was so thankful that I got to spend this time with her – really, really sweet. I am so thankful for all that the Trust does, and that I decided to sponsor her.


photo: in front of Mutara's stall.

After leaving Mutara (who wasn’t anywhere near close to going to bed, from what I could tell), I walked around to some of the other stalls to observe the other elephants. At least two of the little ones were sound asleep, lying on their sides on the soft bedding on the floor, with their blankets over them. Their handlers and I spoke in whispers, so that we wouldn’t wake the babies up.



The Trust staff member who gave us the tour talked with me about the Trust as they were wrapping things up at 6pm. He said that he’s been working at the Trust for 8 years. The African Kenyans who first come to work for the Trust see it as demanding work because it’s a 24/7 job, but it’s a job. But he said that once they start working there, they get very attached to the elephants and the work that they do. That’s very obvious to anyone who sees the Disney film “Born to be Wild” or visits the Trust. It’s actually one of my favorite parts – if not my favorite part – of the Trust.

The same staff member called a taxi for me, and I got a ride home just as a heavy rain began to fall on Nairobi. What an amazing way to spend an evening. If anyone comes to Kenya then you must sponsor an elephant and visit for the Tuck-In!

East Africa Day 93 (Sun Aug 14): Coffee with Nila

Elien and Jan were up in the dark this AM and on their way to the airport. I went back to bed and slept for a few more hours. My second to last Sunday in East Africa – I had to leave the house, and make the most of my summer!

I made plans to meet up with Nila, to hang out one more time before I left. We met up near her apartment building, off of Ngong Road. She lives in a really nice residential area, behind/off of the main strip. I wouldn’t have known those quiet, winding roads were there if I hadn’t met up with her in her neighborhood. We walked down some backroads to reach the Yaya Centre. On our way up to the Food Court on the second floor, we ran into two of her friends – both young American women. One woman is flying back to the USA tomorrow, to start her second year of law school at Columbia. She was here for the summer doing a summer placement. The other woman is here on a more permanent basis. It was fun to meet them.

Nila and I found the food court. Nila ordered lunch, but since I’m avoiding eating out (possibly contaminated food that my body just can’t handle) I had hot tea:) Nila helped me plan my upcoming trip to the coast, and we just hung out and chatted. It was great to get to meet up with her again.


photo: Nila and I, taken inside of Yaya. Yep, western-style mall!

The sun was setting as we walked out of Yaya, so we parted ways there and headed for our respective homes. It turned out to be a beautiful day!

Saturday, August 20, 2011

East Africa Day 92 (Sat Aug 13): TEDxKibera – Empowerment Through Art



This AM, thanks to an invitation from Suraj, Elien, Jan (my Belgian friends) and I took the 46 bus to the Yaya Centre, and then the 8 Matatu to Karanja, Kibera. From there it was a short, easy walk through Kibera to Mchanganyiko Hall, where TEDxKibera was being held today.

We were early, and had no problem finding unoccupied plastic chairs in the front of the room. (The very same plastic chairs that I’ve seen all over Uganda and Kenya!) But when I turned around later in the day, the room was full – mostly with African Kenyans.





I recognized a few people – Acumen Fund East Africa Fellow Ramadhan, and Shining Hope for Communities’ new Development Director, Kim. It was great to get to catch up with them, before the event started. Ramadhan had had a concert the previous night, which I hadn’t been able to attend. He said that Suraj had been there, and that it went well. Kim told me about meeting some of the families who benefit from Shining Hope for Communities’ programs, on the afternoon after I’d first met her – on Thursday. She said that one of the second graders at the girls school taught her father to read and write. Love it! :)

This was my very first TED event, so I have little to compare it to, but it was great! The tech set up was very well done, the building was perfect, and the MC did a great job introducing all of the speakers and the pre-recorded TED videos that we watched between speakers.



Suraj, who was the other organizer, handled the laptop and power point presentation slides for the speakers.

As usual, I took notes. Here’s an outline of the event:

1.) We watched a pre-recorded TED video of Emmanuel Jal, recorded in July ’09 – Oxford, England. He said “music can change the way you live your life and you don’t even know it.” I think I get that – see big photo on the top of my blog:)

2.) We heard from Acumen Fund East Africa Fellow Bonafice, about his photography. He said that he likes to take photos because a photo captures a moment in time, and then it can be reflected up on later. He also talked about politics – he said that Kenya’s leaders have lied. They promised the youth that their time would come, but it never came. Bonafice said that their time is today. The government has failed youth. The youth are now the government. The youth should take over and work on their own problems. (This is similar to what I heard at the Equity Congres.) Bonafice reminded everyone that anyone can run for a government position as an Independent!



3.) A young, female African Kenyan poet spoke about her current work. She began her talk with a poem. Unfortunately I was only able to capture part of it, before my camera gave up on me, but it's still worth posting ...



She was studying abroad, and then in 2006 was awarded a scholarship to work with a mentor. She decided to use this opportunity to write a poem about “home”. But then she realized that she didn’t really know where she comes from - Kenya, her country – her lineage, her mother tongue. She returned to Kenya and set out on a path that has been taking her all around the country to learn her place, and share stories through her poetry about “home”. She said that “the work of the poet is to mediate between the dead and the unborn.” She ended by saying that “poetry allows us to see each other’s souls … so go do some art!”



4.) We watched a pre-recorded TED talk by Sarah Kay from March ’11 –Long Beach, CA. Sarah writes poems to figure things out. She encouraged listeners to be bold and to believe in themselves. Sarah said that her mother said that when she was born, she looked around the hospital room as if to say “I’ve seen all of this before.” But even so, she said that her knees still buckled when she performed as a fourteen year old at the Bowery Poetry Club, in front of adults who encouraged her (and her parents who drove her to and from the Club). Check out the organization she founded as a high school student, and then re-invented as a high school student, Project Voice.

5.) Acumen Fund East Africa Fellow Ramadhan, whose project, which empowers youth through music, is called “We are Watching You”. He said that “nothing is more important than a young person who believes in himself, that he can make a difference.” He talked a little bit about the Acumen Fund East Africa Fellows Program and invited a friend on stage, to perform a song. I met his friend after the event ended, and he had just launched a new band at Ramadhan's event the previous night. Ramadhan is on the left, his friend on the right ...



6.) We then heard from a Kibera artist who teaches Kibera kids art, and also creates art himself. He showed us photos of the kids doing art, and some of his own paintings. He said that the neighborhood kids used to refer to themselves as “gangsters” because they were the ones who had nice clothes. Now, the kids call themselves artists. He said that what art has done for him, he will do for art.



7.) Sara Mitaru spoke (and sang) about her focus for the year, using a Nigerian friend’s song. The chorus is “we (the youth) are the future, we are part of this”. I was excited to hear her presentation because I’d really enjoyed her performances at the Acumen Fund Launch event in Nairobi, last month. So when she began to speak, I started to film … and then unfortunately ran out of space on my memory card. But I captured most of it …



8.) We next watched a film about the street artist JR, who received the 2011 TED Prize. I remember checking out his work when he was in the running for the prize.



His work reminds me of Vik Muniz, an artist that I’d gotten to see a documentary about, earlier this year when I was still living in San Francisco. I believe the screening of Waste Land was part of a Human Rights Film Festival at the University of San Francisco. I encourage everyone to see Waste Land ... bring tissues.





9.) We watched another TED video – Richard St. John, recorded in February ’05 at a TED conference.



10.) The final speaker was Kennedy of Shining Hope for Communities. He grew up in Kibera but currently attends Wesleyan. He said that he wanted an education so that he could share his message, his experiences as a Kiberan, with the world. He said that the rest of the world, who has the stats but not the Kibera experience – understand him because of his education. He said his role models are MLK, Jr, Bill Clinton (who he got to meet on his first trip to the USA for the World Social Forum), and Ghandi. When Kennedy was younger he used to tell his friends that action was more important than money, and so they used to act to improve his community. He said that no one can make things better for you, from the outside. It’s on you to make it better – you have the power. Just like he used to tell his friends – “let’s do what we can be.”



The speakers finished at about 2pm. Then everyone cleared out of the hall, and gathered in the courtyard for drinks, snacks, and conversation. I got to meet some Kiberans doing interesting things in the nonprofit space. I also got to talk with Suraj, Elien, Jan, Kimerly and Jessica Posner some more, which was a lot of fun!


photo: Elien and I.




photo: Jan, deep in conversation.



Elien, Jan and I stopped at the Yaya Centre on our way back to eat at Java House, and to buy groceries for the night’s dinner which Jan insisted on cooking! Once we were in the CBD on our way back to my apartment, we stopped off so that the Belgians could do some gift shopping before heading to the airport in the AM. Unfortunately by the time we got back to my apartment, none of us were feeling particularly well. It was an early night!