Cooking at Natalia's guest house the day after the course ended. Left to right: Karen, Rick, Natalia, Michael, Milly, Jeff, Astrid. This photo is from Natalia's camera. |
I am registered for a few Buddhism courses in India. When I
last posted a blog entry, I was about to start The Seven Points of Mind
Training course at The Root Institute of Wisdom & Culture in Bodhgaya. That
one started on the evening of January 22 and ended 8 days later, on January 29.
The course was taught by Tibetan monk and teacher Gen
Gyatso. He is a graduate of the Buddhist Dialectic School in Dharamsala, where
he studied Buddhist philosophy for over 10 years. He received his Geshe degree from Drebung
Loseling Monastery in South India in 1995. Gen Gyatso teaches at the Buddhist
Dialectic School, which was founded by his teacher Gen Lobsang Gyatso. He also
travels the world, upon invitation to teach. He’s well known and loved by his
Tibetan and western students for teaching complicated Buddhist philosophy to
Tibetans and Westerns in simple and clearly understandable ways – something I
can definitely attest to.
Gen Gyatso taught us following the text of The Great Kadampa
Teacher, Geshe Chekawa’s (born 1102 – died 1106) celebrated root text “TheSeven Point Mind Training”.
The text is an explanation of Buddha’s instructions on how to train your mind,
a practice known as lobjong in Tibetan Buddhism. “The Seven Point Mind
Training” teaches how to transform adverse conditions into the path to
enlightenment, principally by developing a compassionate attitude towards all
sentient beings. The text is a list of slogans organized into groupings. We
studied the slogans to learn the antidotes to mental habits we have, that cause
us to suffer.
Wikipedia has a list of the slogans, although slightly
different from the list we studied in the course, and a list of references if
you want to read more about lobjong. There were about 20 people in the course, all westerners,
including a monk born in Wales, a nun born in the UK, and Gen Gyatso’s student
and interpreter, who is from France. Some of the other countries represented
were Australia, New Zealand, Doha, Finland, Sweden, Israel, Canada, Italy, and
Germany. The Americans in the course were from Michigan, Florida, Georgia, and
Nepal. At least 6 of the students already knew each other because they
completed a month long Tibetan Buddhism course at Kopan Monastery in Nepal last November, and have been traveling (mostly independently) since
then. I had never heard of this course, but it sounds amazing, and fills up
shortly after registration opens each year.
That Kopan course and the Root Institute were founded by the
same teachers, Lama Yeshe and Lama Zopa Rinpoche. Lama Yeshe passed away, and
was reincarnated as Lama Osel, who I learned about at His Holiness’ teaching
this winter. I received two blessings from Lama Zopa at the same teaching this
year, and got to receive a third blessing from him while I was at the Root for
the Seven Points of Mind Training course. A few days after the course began, we
learned that Lama Zopa would be coming to stay at the Root for a silent
retreat. We stood in the Root courtyard to receive him, and received individual
blessings. It was amazing. He would come and go from the Root sometimes while I
was staying at the Root. One night I was heading to the kitchen to wash cups,
and saw him spinning the large prayer wheel located in the courtyard outside of
the dining hall. It was late, and the only other people in the courtyard were
the nuns, monks, and staff who stay at the Root. I was the only one in the
dining hall that overlooks the prayer wheel and the walkway back to the
building where he was staying. I stood with my hands folded, and nodded when he
happened to turn my way. He put his hand up in the air above his head, and
waved at me. It was amazing. I was very glad I had decided to wash those cups.
Most of the course participants slept at the Root during the
course, but a few stayed at other guest houses in town. If you were staying at
the Root then you were not allowed to leave campus during the course. We were
also supposed to remain silent for the duration of the course, all for our own
benefit so that we could focus on our studies and Dharma practices. Breakfast,
lunch, and dinner were served in the Root dining hall. The cinnamon rolls are delicious.
I shared a room with Milly from New Zealand, Keren from Israel, and Astrid from
Sweden. Milly and Keren met at the November Kopan course. Astrid met Rick, who
had also taken that Kopan course at the Varanasi train station. He told Astrid
about the Seven Points of Mind Training course, and she decided to sign up. We
had a lot of fun staying together, and everyone who took the course were
wonderful.
Our mornings started at 6:45am with a 45 minute guided
meditation held in the meditation hall, called a gompa, where Gen Gyatso held
his teachings. The morning meditations were led by Gilad, the Root’s Spiritual
Program Director. We then had breakfast, followed by 2 hours of class, then a
yoga class held on the roof of one of the buildings, taught by a wonderful yoga
teacher from Florida who was taking the course. After lunch we met with in
assigned discussion groups to check in with each other and review the course
material, followed by another 2 hours of class, and then dinner.
After dinner we had another 45 minute guided meditation in
the gompa, sometimes led by the nun who also joined us for the course, who I
met at His Holiness’ winter course, Venerable Sarah Thresher. I am taking a
course with Venerable Sarah in March. Very excited about it – I really enjoyed
her guided meditations. Some of our other evening guided meditations were led
by one of Lama Zopa’s Australian students who was also taking the course.
The Root has a nice library, with a selection of books
reserved just for course participants to read and reflect upon. The Root campus
is beautiful, with many nicely placed benches. IT was common to see course
participants sitting with one of the library books, at any given point during
the day when we had a break between activities. I would read for a little bit
each night before falling asleep before 10pm.
It was a very restful and great 8 days, although also very
challenging. Learning the material, and then working to put it into place in
your own life is far from easy. Gen Gyatso was so kind. He would often remind
us that it would require many, many years of study, and helped us figure out
how we can practice the teachings in the meantime. He also welcomed questions
at the end of each 2 hour class. I asked a few questions, and was so
appreciative of how seriously he took my questions, and the depth of his
answers.
His student and translator, Claire, was also amazing. She
was born in France, but now lives in Dharamsala, where she serves as an oral
and written translator for Tibetan teachers who need translations into French
and English. Gen Gyatso would speak for a length of time in Tibetan, and then
Claire would interpret what he had said to us in English. Gen Gyatso speaks
very good English, but is more comfortable having a translator.
On the last day of the course, we got to have lunch with Gen
Gyatso. After lunch we all walked over to the Mahabodi Temple and Bodhi Tree.
We sat under the tree and recited prayers, and then entered the main temple to
present robes we had purchased as an offering to the large Buddha statute,
which is a highly revered representation of Buddha. The robes we purchased were
beautiful bright yellow material with a shining gold pattern on the fabric. I
didn’t know what would happen, so was so surprised when the monk who attends to
the Buddha statute received our offering, and then actually draped (dressed)
the statute in the robes we offered the Buddha. At the same time the Tibetan
monks and nun with us sang a prayer in Tibetan. It was … really amazing and so
special.
After parting ways with Gen Gyatso outside of the Mahabodi
Temple entrance, I started to circumambulate the temple with Rick and Astrid.
We came across the teacher at the International Meditation Center in Bodhgaya,
that I had spent several hours with in his office before my course started at
the Root. I was so happy to see him there, sitting underneath the Bodhi Tree,
performing a ceremony. He smiled when he saw me, and when the ceremony had
concluded I went to speak with him. He said that in the Theravada tradition,
lay Buddhists can temporarily become novices if they are under age 20, or monks
if they are age 20 or above. He was offering novice vows (and robes) to three
young men who had come, with their families from northeast India to go through
this tradition and take their vows. I later saw them standing in their yellow
robes in front of the entrance to the Mahabodi Temple, having their photos
taken by their family members. Amazing. Such a special day for me, too.
I was supposed to leave Bodhgaya for Varanasi the day after
the course ended, on January 30. That morning I went to find a street dog I’d
been worried about, that I’d learned had been taken to “Dog Camp” (officially
known as Kagyu Monlam Animal Camp, a temporary veterinary facility set up behind
one of the Tergar Monastery in town.
Tergar Monastery is in a part of town I had not visited
before, so in trying to find it I got to walk through and explore other
monasteries and temples. There are so many people, and so many things going on
in what, on the outside looks like a small town – it’s amazing.
Dog Camp was set up by His Holiness the Seventeenth Karmapa, a highly regarded teacher and the head of the
Karma Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism, and was supported and staffed by a lot of
people, including three people I met while interacting with animals in Bodhgaya
– a westerner named Joy who lives in Bodhgaya and runs Dogs of Gaya, and a Nepalese monk Lama Dhundup (Sonam Gyaltse) who is from the Gangkar Kamala
Buddhist Association who invited me to come volunteer with the dogs he and his teacher are helping in Nepal.
When I visited Dog Camp I found not only the dog I was worried about,
who I learned was treated for cancer, but pens full of other dogs and puppies who
were receiving treatment for cancer, spay neuter surgeries, and an assortment
of other conditions. I was invited into what looked like a garage, where the
surgeries were being performed. It was so beautiful. I took many photos, which
I will post at a later date. (In the meantime check out the Dogs of Gaya
Facebook page.) Please wish a healthy recovery and future for the dog that
brought me to Dog Camp. Prior to his surgery at Dog Camp, he had bright red cancer
lesions on his stomach and one leg, and was hoping on 3 legs because the 4th
leg was in so much pain from the cancer. I have never seen anything like it.
There was another dog with an even larger and more progressed cancer lesion at
Dog Camp. Please send her your thoughts, too.
I left Dog Camp with Sonam, the Nepalese monk I met at Dog Camp. It turns out he is friends with someone who took the course with me, and was walking to the Root when I saw him, to help his friend to the airport. He made sure I got back to the Root safely, and I taught him the meaning of the phrase "it's a small world" and he reminded me about karma:)
After saying goodbye to Sonam and his friend, Maria, I went to the guest house where
Natalia, the course yoga teacher had been staying while taking the Mind Training course. It was right across the street from the Root. A group of us
cooked Israeli food under Keren’s guidance in Natalia’s guest house kitchen, and
then ate together on the guest house patio. I had an eye on the clock, because my
train was at 4:08pm. When I looked online to see if my train was running behind
schedule, I learned I was actually the one running behind schedule. My train
had left the station at 4:08 in the morning. Ha. So I bought a train ticket to
leave Bodhgaya the following day, January 31st, instead, and sat
back to enjoy the rest of the party.
After leaving the party, I found a street puppy with what looked like a poorly healed broken leg on the road between Natalia's guest house and the Root. I walked inside of the Root, contemplating how to get this puppy some help before I left Bodhgaya the following day, and walked straight into someone wearing the blue uniform that I had seen people wearing at Dog Camp. I was so happy. Perfect timing.
Things then got funny. This vet in the Dog Camp uniform said he had seen me that morning, down at Dog Camp, and that we had also talked a few days ago, at the Root. I then recognized him as the vet I had met when talking to one of the Root's sick baby goats, during the Mind Training course. He and his team came by while I was talking to the goat, to give that goat an IV. The baby goats at the Root had been bought from a butcher by a Tibetan, who then brought them to the Root. They were all sick with a lung infection, and some of the baby goats had already died at the Root. The vet showed me how to massage the goats' bodies to move the infections out of the lungs.
So, now that I was meeting this vet for the third time, I finally got his card and learned about his work. I was then even more amazed. He is Dr. Thinlay Bhutia, the Local Coordinator for Sikkim, India’s Anti-Rabies & Animal Health (SARAH) Program, and is a part of Vets Beyond Borders. After we talked, Dr. Thinlay Buhtia checked on the goats, and then the street puppy before he left to perform more amazing work.
Later that night a few of us sat in the
movie room at the Root to watch the Martin Scorscese 1997 film about His
Holiness, Kundun. If I had made my train then I would have missed out on Dog
Camp, meeting Joy, Dr. Thinlay Bhutia, Sonam, the party, the movie, and overall
what was the perfect way to end this part of my time in Bodhgaya.
My next post will be about the city I traveled to from
Bodhgaya … Varanasi. The post after that will be about the following city, Agra. I'm now in Jaipur with a more leisurely schedule and better internet access.
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